L’ABBAYE DES VAUX-DE-CERNAY, CERNAY-LA-VILLE, FRANCE

Posted in Projects on 7 November, 2024

From a 12th-century Cistercian abbey to a Rothschild summer mansion, this storied estate has seen it all. Now, under the vision of Paris’ most stylish hospitality group, it steps boldly into its golden era.

Words by Jess Miles

From Raspoutine to CoCo, Paris Society is the creative force behind some of the most fashionable venues in Paris. Renowned for cultivating an atmosphere of understated sophistication, paired with exceptional cuisine in iconic settings envisioned by the industry’s leading designers, it’s little surprise that their spaces have become favoured haunts of Hollywood’s elite and the ultimate destinations for Fashion Week afterparties. With over 70 celebrated locations for dining, drinking, and dancing, this hospitality group has seemingly mastered the art of entertaining. Now, with the full backing of Accor following its acquisition of the group in 2022, the notion is affirmed, and Paris Society continues to proliferate, making its mark both in Paris and internationally.

Under this new partnership, Paris Society made its hotel debut with the Philippe Starck-designed Villa M near Gare de Paris-Montparnasse, featuring an eye-catching eight-storey living façade. Then there’s also Le Refuge de Solaise in Val d’Isere, which, perched at 2,552 metres, boasts one of Europe’s highest-altitude hotels alongside a Gigi restaurant outpost. As if these impressive ventures were just an amuse-bouche, Paris Society founder Laurent de Gourcuff – who was a pioneer in organising parties in his younger days, and was just 22 years old when he opened his first nightclub, Les Planches, near the Champs-Elysees in 2008 – set his sights on what he recalls would be “without doubt the most ambitious project I’ve ever tackled.” Following a €60million, four-year restoration of the second most important listed historic monument in France after Le Chateau de Versailles, L’Abbaye des Vaux-de-Cernay opened its doors as a Paris Society hotel before 2023 was up.

L’Abbaye des Vaux-de-Cernay was originally founded as a 12th century Cistercian abbey. Photographs courtesy of Paris Society.

Nestled within the Chevreuse Regional Natural Park, just a 45-minute drive from central Paris (or a short two hours more from London by Eurostar), this historic landmark-turned-hotel has been many places for many people. Originally founded as a 12th century Cistercian abbey, it came to life with a devout community and was even rumoured to have welcomed royalty drawn to its reputedly fertile springs. Over the centuries, the property faced numerous trials, nearly falling to ruin by the late 19th century before being salvaged by the illustrious Charlotte de Rothschild – whose romantic vision enlivened the property with some of its most cherished and beautifully preserved features today. Slightly less glamourous than serving as the summer mansion of a Baroness, but nonetheless intriguing, the venue also bears a brief history as a hiding place for statues from the Palace of Versailles during the German occupation in World War II. Between then and now, the property did function as a hotel, albeit one that adopted a more traditional approach to transforming a historic site into a hospitality venue – resembling a museum more than a welcoming retreat.

After this not so brief 900-year history, was when de Gourcuff discovered the venue, having long fantasised about creating a French country hotel inspired by the joy that visits to his own country house brought him. “It was my country house, a 13th century farmhouse an hour from Paris on the banks of the Eure, full of unusual antiques, that gave me the desire to make an XXL version of it, and to start this crazy project. When I visited the Abbey, I immediately knew that this was where this project would come to life. It had been my dream to offer our customers the most beautiful country hotel less than an hour from Paris, allowing them to extend the Paris Society experience right down to the hotel.”

One of six dining venues.

As it stands today, L’Abbaye des Vaux-de-Cernay possesses a unique gravitas, somewhat best described as ‘Soho Farmhouse meets Hogwarts meets Gleneagles.’ It’s a millennial’s dream escape, with a certain je ne sais quoi that any British equivalent might struggle to emulate. Perhaps that elusive charm comes courtesy of Cordélia de Castellane – Artistic Director of Baby Dior and Dior Maison – who envisioned the abbey’s transformation into its latest, unforgettable form.

“The Abbaye des Vaux-de-Cernay is one of the most beautiful things I have seen in my life,” de Castellane says. “It is a place full of secrets, where the imagination is endless. It is a place steeped in history, a place that has survived the centuries, a place where life seems very sweet. This is what I wanted to convey through the decoration and artistic direction of the project.” Throughout, florals, checks, and animal prints collide against a backdrop of neogothic architecture, creating a contemporary twist on classic country-house style that honours the abbey’s medieval heritage. On paper, it might sound maximalist, but in practice, de Castellane reveals her love of layered motifs, imbuing the spaces with a refined elegance and inviting intimacy.

Spa and wellness facilities.

Drawing inspiration from the site’s rich history, you can endlessly wander from one space to another, where no two are the same. The eclectic mix of pattern creates a visual feast, telling stories of the past while weaving new narratives. The presence of French craftsmanship is evident at every turn, with collaborations from some of the world’s most renowned Maisons, such as Bernardaud for porcelain, Maison Pierre Frey for fabrics and wallpaper, and Maison Laval for joinery, to name but a few. De Castellane also lent her artistic touch, hand-sketching designs for fabrics and wallpapers adorned with woodland animals in the charming toile de Jouy style.

The heart of the hotel undoubtedly resides in the abbey’s manor house, where a series of lounges beneath grand vaulted ceilings unfold on the ground floor, alongside two of the six dining venues. At James’ Bar, you can ask for French fries without fear of judgement – instead they’ll arrive in Paris Society style, on an ornate silver pedestal, presented with all the ceremony of a wedding cake. Meanwhile, Les Chasses celebrates the finest seasonal produce, offering traditional and elegant cuisine as an ode to the Rothschild family’s hunting heritage, surrounded by decor reminiscent of a stylish stately manor house. Separately, lies Le Réfectoire des Moines, housed in the chapter house, earning its Hogwarts comparisons with soaring architecture and medieval grandeur. Here, guests can enjoy breakfast banquets and indulgent brunches. Over at L’Auberge, timber beams, an open fire, floral drenched walls, and gingham tablecloths set the scene for a rustic dinners, alive with the buzz of boisterous conversation.

Florals, checks, and animal prints collide against a backdrop of neogothic architecture.

Upstairs at the manor house lie the grandest 55 of the estate’s 146 guestrooms and suites, each brimming with unique character and charm. Expect four-poster beds, antique boiserie with fabric-wrapped panels, and vast windows offering sublime views across the estate. And in a delightful nod to tradition, you’ll find classic light switches – no smart control panels in sight. La suite de la Baronne is the fairest of them all – said to have been Charlotte de Rothschild’s personal wing, it has the most exquisite wood panelling and baroque cornices, that follow through to the boudoir and marble bathroom beyond.

A short walk (or cycle, bikes provided) across the drive brings you to Les Haras – the Rothschild-era stud-farm stables, now transformed to house 47 guestrooms and suites along with the estate’s spa and wellness facilities in partnership with Tata Harper. With their turrets and central feature fountain, these stables exude more fairytale than farmyard, only befitting of their new purpose. Nestled on the first floor, the gabled roofs offer a cosier sleeping experience than the abbey’s manor house, and at a more accessible price point for those keen to take in everything the estate has to offer.

Restaurants offer traditional and elegant cuisine as an ode to the Rothschild family’s hunting heritage.

La Ferme is the latest addition and a highlight of L’Abbaye des Vaux-de-Cernay. Situated a little further along the estate, past the boating lake and through a charming woodland, one might easily mistake it for a hidden hamlet. The flint stone buildings of La Ferme house the last 38 rooms, La Trattoria – a down-to-earth Italian restaurant, and Betty’s Bar – a cosy retreat for fireside gatherings and quiet moments of comfort, all set against a charming animal farm where goats vie for attention and chickens roam freely. Having previously designed CoCo at the Opera Garnier for Paris Society, Corinne Sachot was once again enlisted to imbue La Ferme with its own distinct character. Here, vintage and bespoke elements dominate, featuring elegant hangings by Colefax and Fowler and exquisite wickerwork from the Gard region crafted by the VIME workshop.

Completed by La Ferme, L’Abbaye des Vaux-de-Cernay is now a haven where Paris’s bright young things – little families in tow – come to play, roam, and unwind. Thanks to the ever-so-chic Kids Club (crafted in collaboration with Tartine et Chocolat), the animal farm at La Ferme, a larger-than-life games room, an art studio, and cinema, little ones are delightfully entertained, seeming to only surface for their daily dose of chocolat chaud at le goûter – the French version of afternoon tea.

It’s not every day a hotel opens that offers everything a guest could ever want without spreading itself too thin. Even rarer is a retreat like L’Abbaye des Vaux-de-Cernay, which lures you back time and again, promising a fresh experience and a new tale from its eventful 900-year history with each visit. After all, where else can you stay in a former Rothschild mansion, secure a reservation at one of Paris Society’s acclaimed restaurants, and frolic in a setting reimagined by one of Dior’s artistic directors – all at the same time?